Tucked into a quiet valley near the French border, Baita 1697 sits where the wild still feels within reach. Just 2.5 hours from Milan Malpensa Airport, this 17th-century stone farmhouse has been transformed into a warm, unpretentious retreat that feels as nourishing as the meals served inside it.
I came for a gut health retreat hosted by Jo Whitton, and found far more than I expected—space to reset, food that genuinely healed, and a deep sense of connection, both to the land and the people sharing it.
A Chalet With Soul
Baita 1697 is the work of Lucie McCullough, a holistic designer and building biologist with a global reputation for creating spaces that support human and environmental wellbeing. Her fingerprints are everywhere here—from the local stone used in the renovation to the organic wine on the table.
Lucie’s philosophy is simple: build with care, eat with awareness, and live with intention. She partners with nearby farms, supports biodynamic winemakers, and encourages guests to slow down, ask questions, and notice how things make them feel. She’s not interested in trends—she’s building something lasting.
At the chalet, mornings begin with golden turmeric tea. Afternoons are spent hiking, skiing, or simply sitting in silence. Evenings unfold slowly, around candlelit dinners full of colour and conversation. The feeling isn’t showy or curated—it’s calm, grounded, and quietly luxurious.
Famous names have stayed here, from Jamie Oliver to Natalia Vodianova. Yet, Baita 1697 feels like a secret people want to protect.
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Where You Are
The chalet is set in Italy’s Piemonte region, right on the edge of the Milky Way ski area—400km of wide-open slopes and snow-dusted villages like Sestriere and Montgenèvre. It’s refreshingly crowd-free, even at the height of winter.
When the snow melts, the area becomes a lush, high-altitude playground. Trails wind through Val Troncea National Park, where wildflowers bloom and marmots dart between rocks. There are restaurants within walking distance—but once you’re settled in, you might not feel the urge to venture far.
The Stay
This isn’t a hotel. It’s a home—layered with history and warmth. The stone exterior hides a series of cosy, lived-in spaces across three floors, with soft lighting, books by the fireplace, and showers you won’t want to get out of.
Baita 1697 sleeps up to 18, making it ideal for group retreats or gatherings. It’s also one of the few luxury chalets in the area with true ski-in, ski-out access—a rare find in this part of the Alps.
The Retreat
Jo Whitton, known for her work in gut health and traditional foods, leads several intimate retreats here each year. Her approach—simple, healing food made with love—is woven into every detail. Guests cook together, walk in the mountains, share stories, and rest. You leave not just better fed, but better connected to yourself.
Outside of the retreat calendar, Lucie’s team can help craft a custom experience: think yoga in the garden, market visits, guided foraging, massage, or private meals prepared by chef Bianca, who trained under Jo and shares the same whole-food philosophy. The food remains a cornerstone, no matter the season.
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The Food
As a nutritionist, I came with curiosity—and left inspired. There was no pasta, no gluten, no sugar. But there was never any sense of restriction. Each dish felt vibrant and thoughtful, like something your body had been asking for without knowing how to say it.
Mornings started with bone broth and poached eggs, afternoons with turmeric lattes and sun-drenched picnics. One evening, we had pumpkin seed risotto, roasted chicken with orange and honey, and a simple sourdough made from ancient grains and served with bone marrow butter. Even the chocolate was gut-friendly. And the wine? Organic, low-intervention, and somehow as energising as it was indulgent.
Rooted in Community
What sets Baita 1697 apart is how deeply it’s woven into the region around it. Lucie doesn’t just hire local—she collaborates, champions, and invites the community in. One night, we met a cheesemaker who also happens to be a cellist. Another day, we visited a family-run chocolate atelier tucked into the hills, known only to locals. There’s no performance, no polished itinerary. Just real people doing what they love—and sharing it with you.
Final Thoughts
Whether you come to ski, to heal, or simply sit in stillness for a while, Baita 1697 offers a kind of rare hospitality that lingers. It’s thoughtful without being precious, luxurious without losing warmth.
It doesn’t shout to be seen. But once you’ve been, it stays with you.
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